Sonar Board Test fails:

Forget about USB. I was talking about a far more complex totally new sonar subsystem.

Use 2 of the boards you show and unsolder right and left sonar then put those in. You do not need a socket. Just take care in soldering and unsoldering to not destroy the pads on the sonar PC board itself.

Yes the board you show looks correct. It must be a 5V board so I gave you a part number and your link looks right.

Take note where the 5V and ground are before you unsolder the old ones and you must put this new one in with 5V and ground proper position. You have two choices, only one of the choices is right.

You will have to keep it straight in your mind which of your 2 sonars on cables point which way. Our URDF model will still think they are to the right and left but they will be really in the direction you point them.

Hi @mjstn2011,

Ok, that makes more sense now of soldering the new board in the link I found directly on to the Magni Sonar board, yea right, I have to carefully make sure I’m soldering to the 5V and ground position.

  1. Regarding the black cable though, so I plug it in to the back of the new board right ? (Image as below)

Hi @mjstn2011 , All,

Any updates on my question above please? On if the sensor plugs in to the white socket of the board ? Is that correct ?

I have been waiting for ages ,

There is no other place for that cable to plug into on our hardware. Thus β€˜yes’ the black cable from the vendor sonar plugs into their board.
What you must be SUPER careful to observe is that the 4-pins from whatever vendor you get these from exactly matches the expected 4 pins for the HC-SR04 connectors on our sonar board. Some vendors ship different signaling boards. You must be sure that the TRIG signal will start the conversion and the ECHO signal will be the reply. Some of very similar units do other things with their 4 pins such as USART connections and so on. This topic is getting beyond what we officially support so you must take this on with care.

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